New user, new FEG, and some questions

[jagged]

Allright, I purchased a new-to-me FEG in 32 auto the other day. I originally went into a pawn shop to check out a S&W BHP clone, but this little 32 caught my eye; and for $130 I couldn't go wrong!

I've detail-stripped and cleaned all the grease out of it and replace the grease with a couple drops of rem-oil. I still haven't figured out how to take the slide apart, but I cleaned that up the best I could.

My only real complaints about this 32 is the magazine, and the superhuman mainspring!

I can only load 7 rounds into this magazine, but there's still an empty hole below the 7th rounds. I took the magazine apart, cleaned and lubed it, and still can only fit 7 rounds.

I will say, stripping this down to the frame is cake! My other handgun is a SA 1911, and to take that apart I need some pretty specific punches. I was able to do this FEG with a small flathead and some needle nose pliers.


The main questions I have, is what model FEG is this, and is there any place I could get a couple magazines, mainspring, and grips?


Here's a couple pics of it before i got it cleaned up. The 'dirt' on the grips doesn't come off, it appears to be some type of glue/residue.

[normsutton]

jagged

welcome


FEG in 32 is almost same as the PA-63

go here for more info

http://p64.proboards67.com/index.cgi?bo ... hread=1586

this is the manual for the Pa-63 http://www.angelfire.com/oh2/manowar/images/PA63.pdf




NORM

[gunneyrabbit]

Jagged,
Welcome to the forum and congratulations on the the Feg purchase, they are great guns!
G.R.

[jagged]

Thanks for the links, Norm!

Now that I got all the cosmo out of this thing, it's pretty slick. I've taken some razzing from friends over the caliber, but it's hard to go wrong for the price I paid! I've been carrying the 32 a whole lot more than my fullsize 1911. The 1911 feels like a giant brick compared to this.

I'm going to be keeping my eye out for another FEG in 380 or the Mak caliber. I'm really digging the lightweight yet all-metal construction. Plastic pistols feel funny to me

[normsutton]

jagged



if you want some nice wood grips for it Dennis makes the best
http://www.marschalgrips.com/?content=FEG-models

http://www.marschalgrips.com/onlineorder/shop2.html



NORM

[weetabix]

I think it's one of the FEG AP pistols. They made lots of them under different contracts and added suffixes to the "AP" to designate the different contracts. It's a 7-round copy of the Walther PP.

Check out these pages and see if one describes your pistol:
http://www.sunblest.net/gun/FegAP.htm
or
http://www.sunblest.net/gun/FegAP7S.htm
or
http://www.sunblest.net/gun/Hege66.htm

[pshootr]

From CenterFire Systems web adv.:

Slide markings may vary.

Rare Hungarian FEG-manufactured contract pistol.

FEG Model AP 7.65 (32 ACP) Pistol is patterned after the Walther PP.

Blow-back Double Action Automatic

The FEG factory was contracted to produce this AP pistol with a unique slide marking of its own. The marking on this gun is: 7.65mm AP~MBP. It has a right-side marking which reads: Made in Hungary FEG Budapest.

http://www.centerfiresystems.com/AP-765AP-MBP.aspx

To remove the safety first place the safety lever half-way between "Safe" and "Fire" and push the firing pin ALL the way forward. Use some kind of small locking pliers or locking tweezers such as a hemostat to hold the firing ping forward by clamping onto the part of the pin that protrudes through the breech face and wiggle the safety out without moving it to the full "Fire" or "Safe" position. Alternatively, lacking a small clamping device, push the firing pin forward with a punch or similar device smaller than the firing pin's diameter and while holding the back end of the firing pin forward of the safety wiggle the safety out until it jams against the small tool you are using to hold the firing pin forward. Then remove the tool and continue pushing out the safety. Of course if the firing pin jumps back through the safety you will have to start over.

I don't think it would be a good idea to do this without the AGI Gunsmithing video http://www.americangunsmith.com/view.php?id=93 ($40) on the Walter PP/PPK & FEG though. Removing the safety and firing pin will require re-installation of the firing pin safety spring and plunger as well as the extractor, extractor bearing, extractor/safety spring and safety bearing.
You can rent the video for $10 (2-way shipping = free) here: http://smartflix.com/store/video/3647/W ... ers-Course . That's what I did.

Of course, if you are really mechanically talented you can probably figure it out for yourself, or with help from some of the great people on this board.

[jagged]

Awesome, that's what I was looking for.

I think I can handle it. I haven't taken anything apart that I couldn't put back together yet!

[pshootr]

I didn't realize that you really don't need the video. All the information you need is right here on this site by going here: http://p64.proboards67.com/index.cgi?bo ... hread=1586

[jagged]

I got it all apart and back together without an issue now.

Now my only complaints is the DA trigger, and the thumb-destroying safety. I smoothed out the safety some when I cleaned it out, but it could still use some attention.

[pshootr]

To smooth the double action trigger pull you need to polish the hammer strut and the sear.

The hammer strut is rectangular in shape and of course the coil hammer spring is circular. If you draw a rectangle on a piece of paper and then draw a circle tightly around it you will see that the circle can only contact the corners of the rectangle, not the flat sides.

Make sure that the corners (edges) of the hammer strut are glass smooth.

If you are using the factory hammer spring it won't hurt the roll up a piece of 600 - 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper and polish the inside of the hammer spring too. The Wolff springs are very smooth to begin with and I don't bother polishing them.

The Walther and Walther clones have a double action cocking system more akin to a modern double action revolver than to most semi-automatics.

The sear acts on a small spring loaded strut on the front of the hammer to force the hammer back when the trigger is pulled. The face of the sear that contacts this strut should be polished glass smooth. DO NOT round off the sharp lower edge of the sear! This is where the hammer engages the sear to lock back the hammer in the single action mode. Rounding or reducing the dimensions of the sear in this area could create a potentially unsafe condition.

You can also lightly stone the upper part of the hammer strut that goes into the slot in the bottom of the hammer. DO NOT alter the notch in the top of the hammer strut that rests against the small pin that runs across the slot in the bottom of the hammer. Cut a thin strip of sandpaper and lightly polish the little pin that bridges the slot in the hammer like you were drying your back with a bath towel.

You can stone both sides of the trigger bar if you want to. There is a trigger spring that has a "tail" or hook that rides in a deep groove in the lower forward part of the trigger bar. Use sandpaper to polish the "tail" of the spring and the inside of the groove in the trigger bar.

I used rolls and strips of sandpaper to lightly polish all of the pins and the holes they go through.

Lastly, a 8" half round file will have a radius that will just about match the curvature of the trigger face. You can use one to file off the very sharp trigger grooves, slightly round the outer edges of the trigger, and slightly flatten the trigger's tip.

Good luck and have fun! I did smoothing the trigger on my FEG R-61 light alloy framed PPK sized 9x18 version of the PA-63.

[himmel]

Belated welcome, jagged! Glad someone else carries a .32, for a long time my primary was a Zastava 70 in .32, the P64 has taken over as my primary due to it's marginally better concealablity.

[jagged]

I'm pretty happy with it. I still haven't decided yet what to do about the DA trigger. This little guy is so much easier to carry than my fullsize 1911. It make the 1911 feel like a brick!

It's a pretty sweet shooter, just about the right weight for recoil management and handling. I could shoot this all day, much unlike a friend's kel tec P-32.

I still want to find another magazine for this, though

[normsutton]

jagged

to improve on the DA trigger pull change the hammer spring
I have the 9# in both of my PA-63's and in both of my BR-61's and one in my LR-61


http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/FegNF.html#PA63


NORM