Caution on Hammer Spring Replacement

[tmg]

Hammer Springs are sometimes intended to be heavy to slow the slides rearward travel . One reason is to prevent the slide starting rearward too soon.(timeing). Another reason is to prevent slide to frame battering . Just something to consider in reguard to pistols in general before making any spring changes. TMG

[bzinggg]

Yup, you're going to fit right in around here. Welcome aboard.

[duggi60]

Welcome tmg -- great forum to learn & share on!

[normsutton]

tmg
Welcome

that's the reason why some of us wanted a heaver recoil spring to keep the timing in check

NORM

[saands]

The nice thing about the hammer spring retarding the slide movement is that the energy stored in it is not returned to the slide upon its return ... it is unleashed on the primer. This keeps the speed of the slide down as it returns to battery.

Saands

[ccpd]

So now I have to add a question to saands. The main page shows your 16# hammer spring fix, which I did today. Does this mean I now have to change out the recoil spring as well. If so, that would have been nice to know from the instructions, when I ordered the hammer spring and not pay shipping twice.

CCPD

[normsutton]

CCPD

WOLFF has now , springs just for the P-64, when the fix was posted they didn't
http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/PolishNF.html

NORM

[ccpd]

Norm,

But the original fix works as well? I hope so, I bought two springs for my future P-64 purchase.

CCPD

[normsutton]

CCPD
some of 16 # work well in some guns but in some guns you get mags drop and primer failures
I like the 18# spring in mine with the 20# recoil spring
you might like the a 20# hammer spring with a 22# recoil spring each to his own
MAKE SURE YOUR GUN IS CLEAN BEFORE YOU SHOOT IT

NORM

[saands]

I sent an e-mail the other day to dickfunk suggesting that we update the pages with instructions indicating that "real" springs are now available ... and updating the recommendations to something a little stiffer so that there will be fewer problems with side effects.

I hope I didn't take your post the wrong way, but it sounds as though a "this advice is worth what you paid for it" disclaimer might have been appropriate at the end of the replacement tutorial.

I think that I can say with complete confidence that the group here posts the best info that they have when they have it ... it would be nearly impossible (and incorrect) to go back and edit every post where a thoery was potulated and later disproved. If you have taken the time to read through the numerous posts on springs, you would know all about the reported side effects of all the spring mods ...

Good luck,

Saands

[fvm2256]

HI All, new guy here I just got my recoil and hammer springs in the other day. I bought the Wolff 20&22# recoil and a 17# hammer.
May leave the stock hammer having read the thread. Wanted a heavier recoil because of ramp impressions on some of my carry reloads. I loaded them for my Russian and they just about tear my hand off in the P-64 and left ramp impressions on cases.

Thanks for the resources,

Frank

[garry]

Hey fvm2256 ! there is alot of good insight and knowledge here at this site so if you have any Q's , just post them and someone here will likely find answers for you ! Have you shot your P-64 much yet? they are sweet lil' guns ! i have had mine since Oct. 06 and have spent a lot of time with it at the range and out plinking at my bros. farm , and it is one really fine shooting pistol . it is very accurate ! G

[saands]

FVM2256: I too have found that loads that are fine in a Mak are over the top for the P64. I haven't weighed the slides yet, but I think that this is just a byproduct of the smaller design. After working up loads on both platforms, I usually take 5% of the charge off the Mak load to get the load for the P64.

Saands

[garry]

"DOC" mentioned 3.0grs of bullseye for a nice easy shooting load,so , i tried it and it cycles great and has little recoil .(compared to most heavy factory loads. i use that recipe for most of the loads i make ,but also, i use some 9mmLuger brass (trimmed to 18mm length), in those i usually use 3.4grs with 90 gr speer jhp . they still shoot soft enough but hit the jugs hard at long distances of 50 yards.
my point is this: Ammo is worth what you pay for it usually, however, reloading is very economical these days and you can tailor a load that YOUR gun likes best . for alot less $$'s G

[fvm2256]

Garry & Saands, Thanks for the input on the loads. I use starline brass, win.sp primers and Hornady .365, 95gr XTP/HP with a COL of.959-.962, started with AA2 and worked it up .2 at a time they shot great but recoil was nasty and the ramp impressions got pretty bad before I got close to max. Then I went to Unique and worked up .2 gr at a time the pressure signs developed early and recoil was again nasty. I finally decided to go to AA7 which creates less pressure and worked them up.2gr at a time. No pressure signs and they shot great 2 inch groups at 15yards recoil is not as bad with the AA7. The weather has finally improved up here in NH I installed the 22# recoil and 17# hammer spring and new firing pin spring that looks to be a little beefier. Headed to range.... Just got finished cleaning the guns. P-64 shot great with the new springs ;D and factory loads which were as snappy as some of my reloads with the old sprigs. Didn't have time to chrono my hand loads I'll do that next week and let you guys know how they work out. Have a GREAT WEEKEND.