I feel your pain! It is really a matter of getting the trigger return spring in the right position, and I don't think I can describe that...when I did it, I know I spent about 45 minutes tinkering with it, using probes, hemostats, and small screwdrivers. Just go slow and remember-what come apart goes back together.
Also, this might be the perfect time to do some light polishing on engagement surfaces. You won't want to take this part off again.
"I was so much older than, I'm younger then that now..."
Welcome to the forum.. Not sure I can describe how I fixed mine. First a screwdriver will not work. If you look at one end of the bar there is a small "shaft" that is scored on the end (grooved). The end of that small spring fits into the score. You can't get to it with a straight tool. I took a paper clip and put a bend in it ( L ). With that I could work the spring up into that score. Not sure thats clear.. Send me PM are email if I can be of another assistance.
Hello, I'm a new reader of this forum and this is my first post. I took my first P-64 apart over two years ago and used a very small crochet hook from wally world ($.75 for 2) to reassemble it. I now have two sizes of these hooks in my tool box. ;D
I reinstalled the trigger return spring from the left side of the pistol with the slide hold open lever removed. This was the only way I could get it in properly. If you have some reference books, the Walther PP is similar in design and dis-assembles and re-assembles much the same.
Welcome Nodak,
If you read some posts you might have noticed that some of us newer owners are trying various trigger and recoil springs. As a seasoned owner do you have any tips or recommendations for us?
Any or all would be appreciated,
Stan
I have not done a lot of changes to my P-64's ( I have three). The only change I have done to all three is to lighten the hammer spring. I ground 1 to 2 coils, a little at a time, until the DA pull was down to a manageable level, around 12 to 14 pounds. This is heavier than many DA pistols, but if you try a DAO type, most are in that range. It feels heavier in the P-64 because of the small platform. Glocks for the NEW YORK LEO's all have an 18 pound trigger from the factory. This is not an impediment when used in a threatening situation, since the adrenaline kicks in and you won't notice the heavy pull. The P-64 is not a target pistol and will never feel like one. It is a small, easily concealed, personal protection fire arm, and a very good one in my opinion. I can only shoot about 25 rounds or so before my hand is too sore to continue.
As far as tips for new owners, if you are not familiar with or comfortable working on machinery that is closely fit with small pieces, don't take it apart any more than to clean it. If you detail strip it, you will have a long day, since a really good maintenance manual is not readily available ( I have not yet looked at the one available here) even many gunsmiths will not be able to give a good estimate on repair time, let alone parts availability.
I have had mine apart many times, but I'm a tinkerer. On one occasion I was not able to get back to the reassembly for about 4 months. I needed at least 6 hours of concentration to reassemble. Having a second one to look at really helped. Without that reference, I would still have a box of pieces.
I don't read this forum regularly, since I'm going to school, so if you have questions for me, I may not see them for few days. I will try to answer ASAP, but no promises.
Well, I just went through this character building experience myself. My solution was to get a couple small nails, use one nail (from the triggerbar side) to lift the spring. Then, I used the second nail to come in from the other side (under the slide stop) and hold the spring up, at which point I could remove the first nail. This gave me access to install the trigger bar without anything in the way. Once the trigger bar was in, I pulled the nail out from the opposite side, and the spring popped down into place.
I noticed a LOT of rub marks on both sides of the trigger bar. I was in a hurry to get to the range, so I didn't take time to polish anything, I just gave it a generous coat of axle grease, both sides. Holy cow, it was a completely different gun. The double action pull went from impossible to firm, sort of a New York trigger, (Warsaw trigger?) Anyway, I can definitely live with it now.
I have learned something this morning; don't take the pistol apart, LOL!
Seriously, "garrybuck" just provide some needed information, USE GREASE on sliding parts. I am a firm beleiver in using the correct grease and I use different grease for winter shooting vs. summer shooting. Some folks use oil and no grease, I use a combination of oil and grease and have never had problems with my firearms. When two surfaces contact each other, they need lubrication and a good grease designed for high pressure will STAY PUT. Oil has a tendancy to "wipe off" if not relubed, and grease stays in place better.
I don't use the expensive gun oils or grease either, but use military surplus grease, Castrol wheel bearing grease (excellent for summer), etc. It is low cost and the wheel bearing grease is designed for high pressure and is water repellent! The only problem is that in the winter, it can cause some malfunctions unless SPARINGLY used. For winter, I usually mix a little oil with the grease to thin down the viscosity and it is great.
get thee a set of small machinists pics (dental tools) and what I call a mechanics ice pic. I very long slender scribe with a straight and L shaped end.
Yep, you are correct, the dental picks and the scribe work wonders with firarm parts! I have a friend that is a dentist and I got a full set of picks from him. This set has the fine points for cleaning teeth and the small "spoonbill" tools they use to smooth out fillings. These things are great picking out stuff and aligning parts. This set stay s in my cleaning kit!
Many of the type picks are avialable from several souces and are reasonably priced. Most are made in India, but for firearms work, they are excellent. Sportsmans Guide used to have them and Harbor Freight did too.
Speaking of Staying Put. I tore into my pistol again this evening, this time for the mainspring swap. After a goodly bit of rough handling, I noticed something odd. The triggerbar didn't fall out. It used to fall out really easily. Then I noticed; The Grease. I'd greased that bad boy like a peanut butter sandwich over the weekend. Apparently, the suction/adhesion between bar and frame discourages pulling away, while it encourages sliding.
Here is a link to Sportsmans Guide for the Dental Picks. This is a 14 piece set for $15 and they are stainless steel. They also have a 4 piece set, but it is $10, so the 14 piece set is the best buy. They will last you forever. The link is: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=91984
http://www.usgunleather.com
