re-blue my P-64

himmel · Post by **himmel** » March 4th, 2007, 6:50 pm

Man those are some nice looking handguns!! Either of you guys want to take a crack at my Mak??

LOL! Actually, I got someone else that wants to try...

grayfox · Post by **grayfox** » March 4th, 2007, 6:53 pm

Its amazing what you guys have done. I have done some touch-up, but not that good. Keep the tips & pics coming.

redfestiva · Post by **redfestiva** » March 4th, 2007, 7:27 pm

Before & after

Post by **papabear** » March 4th, 2007, 7:52 pm

redfestiva,

Nice work, ;D If I had to do it for a living I'd go broke the first month, but it was a labor of love.

Papabear

redfestiva · Post by **redfestiva** » March 4th, 2007, 7:58 pm

Thanks Papabear,
I found out very quick to get the rubber gloves on too. The blue & rust remover had my hands burning immediately but I washed them right away and no harm done. I should have known better.

anjdrifter · Post by **anjdrifter** » March 4th, 2007, 7:59 pm

I have been really tempted to try re bluing and have used Brownell's version of dura coat with what I think are pretty darn good results . BUT your jobs intimidate me from trying thank you for sharing and saving me from attempting could not hope to come close. Not being smart really like the work you all did.. here is my attempt with my Iver Johnson super seal

grayfox · Post by **grayfox** » March 4th, 2007, 11:17 pm

You should be proud of that.!

redfestiva · Post by **redfestiva** » March 4th, 2007, 11:40 pm

anjdrifter,
I like the look of that Iver Johnson.That's a cool pistol. What calibur is it?

bzinggg · Post by **bzinggg** » March 4th, 2007, 11:58 pm

Man those are some nice looking handguns!! Either of you guys want to take a crack at my Mak?? LOL! Actually, I got someone else that wants to try...

Hey himmel, here's a Mak (Bulgy) on which I reblued the slide.

The essentials:

I buff with a brass brush instead of steel wool. Used 400 and 600 wet-or-dry since it was a Bulgy. You can polish alll the way up to 2000 grit if you have an East German. I used the Naval Jelly after polishing to insure stopping the corrosion completely, and after cleaning off thoroughly with water, heated the slide up very warm with the hair dryer and applied the bluing very wet, buffed it off with the brass brush and re-heated and re-applied bluing. Rebuffed, soaked in WD-40 for one hour, buffed some more and soaked with WD-40 again. Then I wiped it down very dry with paper towels and coated with gun oil. It came out very uniform and does not smell.

anjdrifter · Post by **anjdrifter** » March 5th, 2007, 12:04 am

anjdrifter,
I like the look of that Iver Johnson.That's a cool pistol. What calibur is it?

22lr it is 8 shot ....it is sweet shooten machine ... it must have been a drawer gun for decades but was really rough looking on the outside, innards were great . the brownells I think really did it justice.

anjdrifter · Post by **anjdrifter** » March 5th, 2007, 8:26 am

I used Aluma-hyde 11 in black flat matte on the IV. and some others

Post by **papabear** » March 5th, 2007, 9:39 am

anjdrifter and bzinggg, nice work guys ;D you got em looking good again.

Papabear

himmel · Post by **himmel** » March 5th, 2007, 4:50 pm

You guys are makin' me feel bad...LOL! Nice job, really makes a difference!

Man those are some nice looking handguns!! Either of you guys want to take a crack at my Mak?? LOL! Actually, I got someone else that wants to try...
Hey himmel, here's a Mak (Bulgy) on which I reblued the slide.

The essentials:

I buff with a brass brush instead of steel wool. Used 400 and 600 wet-or-dry since it was a Bulgy. You can polish alll the way up to 2000 grit if you have an East German. I used the Naval Jelly after polishing to insure stopping the corrosion completely, and after cleaning off thoroughly with water, heated the slide up very warm with the hair dryer and applied the bluing very wet, buffed it off with the brass brush and re-heated and re-applied bluing. Rebuffed, soaked in WD-40 for one hour, buffed some more and soaked with WD-40 again. Then I wiped it down very dry with paper towels and coated with gun oil. It came out very uniform and does not smell.

bzinggg · Post by **bzinggg** » March 5th, 2007, 8:10 pm

I need to add that between the first and second application of bluing, one needs to make sure that the brush they buff with does not have any oil or WD-40 on the bristles. I swish mine around in a shallow pan of acetone, and then blow it dry with compressed air. Any oil at all during the bluing application will cause a blemish. If you do a lot of this, get several brass brushes. They're not too expensive, and they do not contain the oxidation crystals that steel wool contains. The little brass bristles get into the serrations and other places without any worry about rounding edges or rubbing spots of different texture because of differing pressure or rubbing too long in one area, etc.

gunneyrabbit · Post by **gunneyrabbit** » March 13th, 2007, 11:16 pm

You two guys rock, Nice Work to the both of you!

The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum