Analysis of Safety Plunger Problem

[bzinggg]

Hello gang!

I got a couple of new P-64s and while I was detailing them I captured an image of what I think a lot of you might like to know in regard to hard safety operation that plagues some owners.

In the image, you can see the safety plunger pockets (or one of them). Notice that axle of the safety is rough-turned with somewhat evenly spaced ridges along it's circumference.
It is my belief that the pockets are cut first and the circumference of the axle turned after, creating s serrated edge burr at the lip of the plunger pockets. Since there is no lubrication present from the factory in this area, just the cosmo juice that they are stored in, repeated operation of the safety, especially in a forcefull manner, will result in these serrated burrs biting and cutting into the plunger rather than sliding over it, pushing it into the plunger cavity, depressing the plunger spring. Remember, that the plunger has not been properly lubricated either, and has a tendency to cant and bind, rather than slide down compressing the spring. A few forced strokes by a strong thumb while this kerosene-like preservative fails to really lubricate (it's more like cutting fluid in it's properties than like gun oil or grease) and one has metal shavings in the plunger hole and the problem is really compounded, because the shavings and grit impede the movement of the plunger even more. Finally, one can end up with a flat-topped plunger.



I believe that one should detail strip especially this area, using some 600 or 800 wet-or-dry to bevel the burr off the edge of the plunger pockets on the safety before dry-firing or operating the safety lever at all, being diligent to clean and properly lubricate the plunger and the axle of the safety.

You shouldn't overdo the polishing on the entirety of the surface of the safety axle, because the OD needs to remain concentric and snug to keep from having a wobbly, undersized safety. Also, the ridges are left there to aid in retaining the lubricant. But, the inside edges of the plunger pockets on the safety could stand rounding over a bit to smooth up operation of the safety by eliminating the binding. Don't overdo it. Use the finer grits, like I mentioned and do it by hand. Leave the rotary tool in the drawer! Meticulously clean all the grit out of the area after polishing, and use gun oil or light grease before closing up.



Note: I used the 3-in-1 oil to lube the wet-or-dry sanding operation, not to lube the safety and plunger.

[normsutton]

bzinggg

I agree with you, if these fine guns are not completely cleaned of Cosmolin ,could damage the gun and most problems with all Surplus guns can be solved with cleaning all the Cosmolin out of the guns and proper lubrication

NORM

[blinddog]

bzinggg, what do you use to lub your weapon. I use 3 in 1. Am I using the wrong stuff and if I am what should I be using?

[normsutton]

blinddog

3 IN 1 OIL should be just fine for lubrication not as a cleaner

I use VALVOLINE 20 W-50 SYNTHETIC for lubrication on my guns

NORM

[bzinggg]

Yes, Norm's right. The 3-in1 oil is a good lubricating oil and won't hurt anything, but something with a little more body, like the valvoline or gun oil is better for lubrication. On many items that I use wet-or-dry abrasive papers on, I use WD-40 to do the polishing with. It floats the particles away keeping the paper free of build-up and more effective. However, I am of the group who believes that WD-40 should not be on the list when it comes to supplies of the firearm cleaning and maintenance category, so on guns I use the 3-in-1 with the wet-or-dry. I just don't keep WD-40 around my guns.

[blinddog]

I was told long ago not to use WD-40 to lube weapons. Don't know why, I know someone told me it was'nt good for them and I payed attention.

[barnett3006]

I have used WD-40 to clean my guns, but only because I couldn't find anything else to use. I also used WD-40 as a stone lubricant when I honed the cylinders in my trucks engine. IMO WD-40 is a better cleaner than it is a lubricant and I don't use it to lube anything.

[manwithagun]

As my gunsmith friend tells me, WD-40 is a rust inhibitor/remover. Since bluing is a form of rust, WD-40 on a blued firearm will eventually damage the bluing and you'll have to start all over again from bare metal. Sounded reasonable enough for me...

[redfestiva]

I heard that WD - 40 takes a bad toll on primers. A police cheif told my CCW class a story of a policeman that never changed out his carry ammo. He used WD - 40 to clean & lube his gun after shooting practice ammo and when the dreaded day came he had to fire his duty gun , nothing went bang. The station armorer told him that the WD-40 had penetrated the primers on all his bullets and rendered them nonfirealbe. In any case there is simply too many good proven products on the market to bother using WD-40. I personally use Hoppes #9 and Eezox.

[bzinggg]

Good post!

[abwehr]

WD-40 is a good product, but it is not a lubricant! It will displace water, so it your firearm gets wet, spary it down with WD-40 until you can get it cleaned properly.

I use it as a cleaner and short term rust preventative. I have read on many Forums that it will not prevent rust, but having used it for over 30 years, nothing has rusted so far. Like I said, I use it for short term protection only. When it is sprayed on a part, the "carrier" will dissepate and leave a protective film. Over time, this film will coat the part. If you spray more on the same part, the "carrier" willl again dissepate and the active ingrediants will build up on the part causing it to be stickey. Good stuff, but must be used properly.

[bzinggg]

Yes, the "WD" stands for water displacement. Speaking of water, specs say that's exactly how well it lubricates under pressure between surfaces; the same as water.