My apologies to everyone who has offered advice and may be waiting for feedback. I haven't had time to try any repairs - I had to relocate my restaurant (lease issues) and didn't go to the range for 3 months. Just now starting to get back to a normal schedule when Christmas snuck up on me.
I promise to get this straight after the first of the year and let you guys know how it turns out - I'm thinking sear pins.
Since I had the problem with FEG #1 I bought FEG #2 (all black) - it performs flawlessly. I figured I'd pull the sear and pins out of it and swap into #1 for a test.
FEG PA 63 fails to cock
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- Joined: October 12th, 2009, 8:54 pm
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
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- Member
- Posts: 74
- Joined: October 12th, 2009, 8:54 pm
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: FEG PA 63 fails to cock
I swapped the sear pins out and took #1 and # 2 to the range. #1 still had the same issues. #2 fired flawlessly with #1's sear pins. I did notice that the trigger bar on #2 appeared to have more mass on the lug that fits into the sear notch than #1. I will swap out the trigger bar and let you know.
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Re: FEG PA 63 fails to cock
Well I took #1 and #2 to the range today. I had all of #1's parts in #2 and vice versa. #2 shot fine - #1 still would not cock. I am at a total loss on this.
Re: FEG PA 63 fails to cock
Maybe frame #1 is out of spec, or the sear pivot pin holes are worn.
Assuming the disconnector is working and the gun works when handcycled, but the hammer is still following when live firing:
If the pivot pins have any play at all, you can try making oversize pivot pins.
Or maybe it's the firing pin safety plunger spring. NOT the one in the side of the firing pin. I'm talking about the little tiny pin that pushes up out of the frame when you pull the trigger. To get that part out, you need to remove the pin that holds it, then tap it out with a long screwdriver, placed through the bottom of the mag well.
This spring does not seem like it could possibly matter, but it does. On the bottom where you can't see, it pushes down on the sear. If it's too light, it facilitates the sear to move too high. And as discussed, the sear/trigger bar engagement barely hangs on by the skin of its teeth at the extreme end of overtravel.
If all else fails, there's still something to try. The heavier safety plunger spring works by limiting the excessive range of movement of the sear. Another way to limit it is via the hammer. To do this, I imagined putting something in the beavertail of the gun. Sometime like a small screw drilled and tapped into the top of the beavertail, with the head sticking up so as to limit the overtravel of the hammer. I have no idea how that would wear over time, but it should work, in theory... if you have the problem I described in my earlier post. (Be sure to try "the test," BTW.)
Assuming the disconnector is working and the gun works when handcycled, but the hammer is still following when live firing:
If the pivot pins have any play at all, you can try making oversize pivot pins.
Or maybe it's the firing pin safety plunger spring. NOT the one in the side of the firing pin. I'm talking about the little tiny pin that pushes up out of the frame when you pull the trigger. To get that part out, you need to remove the pin that holds it, then tap it out with a long screwdriver, placed through the bottom of the mag well.
This spring does not seem like it could possibly matter, but it does. On the bottom where you can't see, it pushes down on the sear. If it's too light, it facilitates the sear to move too high. And as discussed, the sear/trigger bar engagement barely hangs on by the skin of its teeth at the extreme end of overtravel.
If all else fails, there's still something to try. The heavier safety plunger spring works by limiting the excessive range of movement of the sear. Another way to limit it is via the hammer. To do this, I imagined putting something in the beavertail of the gun. Sometime like a small screw drilled and tapped into the top of the beavertail, with the head sticking up so as to limit the overtravel of the hammer. I have no idea how that would wear over time, but it should work, in theory... if you have the problem I described in my earlier post. (Be sure to try "the test," BTW.)
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- Member
- Posts: 74
- Joined: October 12th, 2009, 8:54 pm
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: FEG PA 63 fails to cock
I already moved e-v-e-r-y part from #1 to # 2 with the same results. If I still had my venier caliper I would have mic'd the frame and slide to see if there was any substantial difference.
For now, #1 is a parts/future project gun.
For now, #1 is a parts/future project gun.
Re: FEG PA 63 fails to cock
Oh, darn. Then, like me, you've already spent way too much time and effort on a 150 dollar gun. What's a few more hours? Try the hammer screw!?
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: October 12th, 2009, 8:54 pm
- Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Re: FEG PA 63 fails to cock
To console myself I bought a FEG 380 yesterday. Now I have "Twins" a FEG 380 and a FEG SMC 918. Pictures to follow.