Gun Show Report

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papabear
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Post by papabear »

The gun show at Evansville, In was ok, had a good time and got to talk to a couple guys I hadn't seen in awhile. Picked up a post WWII Gold box for a pre-10 M&P with the S&W brown paper and manual, set me back a bit but it goes really nice with my per-10 M&P.

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Also picked up a couple Makarov 8rd mags, good deal on them, they had 7 of them and was asking $15 ea., but one of them was a E.German mag, and he didn't know it, however, I told him about it and he thanked me, he didn't know the difference between the other Mak mags and the E. German mags. so he sold me the 2 reg. Mak mags for $15 OTD for telling him the difference, I have plenty of E.German mags, that's why I told him.

Found 2 CZ82's, asking price was $285, found a CZ52 in avg condition $185 OTD, one P-64 with one mag.......$235.....ouch! I did get a Russian sling for my newly purchased (91/59) $100 OTD at my local pawn shop this past Monday, that I have broke down and cleaning out the cosmo and stripping the stock of the lacquer finish, I'll post pic's of that when I'm finished.

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manicmechanic
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Post by manicmechanic »

That's a great find to go along with the M&P for sure.
As far as the mags on the makarovs go, will they all work with other maks? Also I've seen some reference to 10 and 12 rnders, will these also work?
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beasleydano
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Post by beasleydano »

8 round Makarov mags are single column mags and, whether Russian type or East German type, will work in Russian, East German, Bulgarian & Chinese Makarovs. 10 & 12 round magazines are staggered column mags and work only in the high capacity frame Makarovs (Russian commercial). Single column 8 round mags will also work in the high capacity frame Makarovs but will have some wiggle. At one time Makarov.com offered base plates for 8 round mags to be used in high cap frames and allow for a flush fit at the mag well base. By the way there is also a Russian commercial model that is a "fake high cap". The grip appears to be that of a high cap but it only uses 8 round mags.
Last edited by beasleydano on September 26th, 2007, 12:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
volfandan
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Post by volfandan »

papabear,

you'll have to post some pics of our 91/59! I had actually just asked about them in another MN post recently. Carguy said that most of the MN guys on gunboard say the 91/59's generally bring about $250, and I saw a nice one on gunbroker for $150 "buy-it-now". I like them, just seems too much like a M-38, and I'm getting ready to order a M-38 with my new C&R.
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papabear
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Post by papabear »

papabear,

you'll have to post some pics of our 91/59! I had actually just asked about them in another MN post recently. Carguy said that most of the MN guys on gunboard say the 91/59's generally bring about $250, and I saw a nice one on gunbroker for $150 "buy-it-now". I like them, just seems too much like a M-38, and I'm getting ready to order a M-38 with my new C&R.
volfandan,

AIM Surplus in Ohio has them for $149.95, and that is the cheapest I have found them, of course then you have shipping and maybe FFL fees if you don't have a C&R. If you can/will hit the pawn shops, you can find deals on the Mosin Nagants, mostly the M44's, but they are getting the 91/59's too, my pawn shop was asking $129 and I got it for $100 OTD, and the materials for cleaning and stripping cost maybe $6 plus I enjoy cleaning them and when I'm finished I shoot them then they are mine, before that they don't belong to me.

The main difference between the m38 and the 91/59 is the rear leaf sight, it is the same as the 91/30, with the numbers 11-20 filed off for the 91/59, other wise they are the same, the M38 has the shorter rear sight that numbers from 100 yrds to 1000 yrds, and most of the m38's have the bayonet grove on the stock and the 91/59's don't. You can get a M38 for $79.95 at AIM.

I have all the metal on my 91/59 cleaned, I went through 1 1/2 cans of carb cleaner just getting the cosmo off, I have the stock stripped and soaking in water to get the dings out, then I hang it to dry and by tomorrow night it will be dry to go over with the #0000 steel wool and then wipe it down. Then I'll apply a few thin coats of BLO till I get the color I want, when that drys I put a few coats of Johnson Paste Wax on and rub it down. I'll post some pics when I finish. For me this is a labor of love, so I enjoy taking my time and getting it the way I want it. I know there are easier ways and probably better ways to do this, but I have been doing it this way for so long I figure why change now, besides I like the results.

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