The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

I have started this tread because more and more of you all seem to interested

maybe DF can make our section for reloading

there is no cheap way of getting into reloading

once you get set up I believe you can make a quality bullet for $.10 a round
when I started reloading I started with the 45 long COLT and was loading it $.05 a round but that was then and this is now

the best kit on the market today for the being reloader is this kit here I wish they had this kit when I started relaoding and you can always get your money back out of it


Lyman Crusher 2 Single Stage Press Expert Kit


The Crusher 2 is a heavy-duty single stage "O" frame press. Features: 1" diameter ram, compound linkage, 4-1/2" press opening, standard 7/8"x14 thread, 3 mounting holes, Silver Hammertone powder coat finish and a press operating lever that allows left or right hand operation. Priming arm and primer catcher included. Crusher 2 Expert Kit includes: Crusher 2 Press, Universal Trimmer with Expanded Pilot Multi-Pack, M-500 Reloading Scale, #55 Powder Measure, primer tray, auto primer feed, extra decapping pins, 48th Edition Reloading Handbook, deburring tool, powder funnel, case lube kit and 7/8"x14 adapter for mounting the #55 Powder Measure.


http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.e ... t=11082005

The first thing you need is a up to date reloading manual or two
LYMAN just came out with their 48th edition reloading handbook http://www.lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/index.htm
also you can get free ones from here http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

I suggest you get THE ABC'S OF RELOADING 7th edition

any question you have give me a call my phone # is at the bottom of this post
http://p64.proboards67.com/index.cgi?bo ... 1179953781

or can email me your phone # and I can call you

NORM

Norm is right, you can't beat Lyman products! I have Lyman, RCBS and Lee reloading products and each is for my particular purpose.

I enjoy reloading a lot! Some folks think it is a "chore" to reload, but for me it is relaxing. I only reload when I am alone, I don't want distractions that could cause me to do something wrong. And the best part, it SAVES you money to shoot more.

I buy most of my stuff from Midway and get their dealer discount by providing them a copy of my C&R License. This saves me $$$$ again. If you have never reloaded, then you need the Manuals Norm recommends, read the instructions and FOLLOW them. You don't want to have an accident.

I agree with almost everything that Norm's post says, but I will throw out an option if the $269 price of the Lyman kit is prohibitive:

Donning NOMEX before suggesting a kit based on a Lee press ...

For just under $100 you can get the following list of gear from Midway at their retail prices ...

410804 Lee Hand Press $20.99
713372 Frankford Arsenal Micro Reloading Electronic Powder Scale 750 Grain Capacity $29.99
118739 Lyman Electronic Scale Powder Funnel Pan $5.79
476992 Lee Case Trimmer Cutter and Lock Stud $4.99
540522 Lee Perfect Powder Measure $18.99
807875 Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool $11.99

You will also need to add a manual to this list ...
Norm's suggestions are fine for the technique references, and you can download the actual recipes from the powder manufacturuers (Alliant, Hodgdon, VihtaVuori, etc).

In both cases, you will have to buy dies for each caliber that you want to reload ... I recommend the LEE dies without reservation - they are on the order of $20 a set IIRC and every bit as good as some that cost twice or more. Your inital investment will also need to include some powder and primers ... this would be a good time to hit a show, as the primers and powder carry a HazMat charge, so shipping is usually an expensive option unless you are purchasing substantial quantities. MidSouth Shooters Supply has good prices online ... but that @20 hazmat is hard to recover.

Just to keep things straight, I'm not suggesting that this is a comparable set of equipment to the Lyman set ... but it IS a servicable set and the only part that you will want to outright upgrade is likely to be the Lee "LESS THAN Perfect Powder Measure" ::) I started with a kit almost like this and I've loaded 1000's of rounds (everything from 32acp to 450 Marlin) on it ... The really nice thing about the hand press is that your whole kit can fit in a tool box, so if you live in a small place, you don't need to dedicate a bench to it. You will likely want to upgrade the press to at least a single stage press at some point, but the hand press will always be handy ... I think I still use my hand press more than my Turret press.

A note of caution on the LEE brand: LEE stuff that has very few moving parts is usually a great value (think dies, cutters, and simple single stage presses here). LEE stuff with lots of moving parts is usually a lesson in frustration (note the disclaimer on the powder measure above and the inclusion of a non-Lee scale in the list above). Oh, I almost forget ... MY original set came with a LEE manual ... which was interesting reading, but in that edition at least he discussed a lot of STUPID experiments he tried over the years. He didn't use them as examples of stupid things to avoid, though, and I have always felt that such discussions were inappropriate in a reference that should be focused on safety ... zero stars for that book ... all the others out there seem pretty good.

Talking about the powder measure ... the LEE model above handles extruded powders (all the Vihtavuori powders and many/most rifle powders) really well ... no complaints from me at all when used with extruded powders. It struggles a little with the flaked powders like RedDot, 800x, etc. ... you can use it, but it's enough of a difference to make you prefer the extruded powders. It just plain gags on the fine ball powders (AA#9, and many others I've just never tried because of this) ... unusable for these fine powders IMHO.

IF you can live with the powder limitations, you can live with the LEE measure, if not, that would be a piece to consider spending more on. I finally upgraded to an electronic trickler, but that cost more than the whole Lyman kit, so if we're talking about loading on a budget that is out.

Anyway, I just wanted to toss out another option ... with this one, you can be reloading safely for less than $150 including your 9x18 dies, a good manual, and shipping.

By the way +1 on the cautions to avoid distractions! This is not a place to be careless ... I've always wanted to use that emoticon, but I'm not the type to get angry and use it that context

Be safe

Saands

ps ... you can see my setup in this thread: http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/sho ... p?t=177182

THE ONLY THING I DON'T LIKE ABOUT LEE DIES IS THEIR LOCKING RINGS THIS A WAY TO CORRECT THAT

The first thing you need to have
1 1/8 th drill bit
2. 6 NC32 tap
3 . some brass 6x32 screw’s

take rubber 0 ring out
mount nut with one of corners up

next take a center punch and make a mark where you are going to drill

next dill hole

next tap nut

putscreww in


screw on die put die in press screw in screw and now you don’t have to readjust you die every time
SORRY ABOUT PIX
NORM

I'll have to agree with most of the above.
I started reloading with my dad as a kid and have been doing it on my own for 27 years. It is a hobby in itself. The rewards are many.
Buy good equipment and you'll have it for life. My first press was a RCBS Rockchucker and I use it to this day for all my rifle stuff. For handgun reloads I use a Dillon RL550B. You can crank out 4 to 5 hundred rounds an hour once you get it down. If you want mass quantity, the progressive presses are hard to beat.
If you shoot centerfire cartridges on a regular basis the equipment will be paid for in short order. The cost of components is increasing at about the same rate as ammo. If you go to Walmart and steal wheel weights from the cars in the parking lot you could cast bullets for just about nothing. For most getting started in reloading though, the bullets will be purchased.
Realistically you should be able to load most pistol rounds with cast bullets for 8 to 10 cents a round. Jacketed bullets will about double those figures.
Reloading is not rocket science but it takes care and attention to detail
If you're seriously thinking about getting into reloading, I say go for it.

You realize, of course, that stealing wheel weights of a cars tires causes the owner to have to get his wheels balanced, at the least; $30.00 and the time and inconvienience. At the most, a wheel could start bouncing badly at speed and cause an accident, possibly bodily injury or death to anyone in the vehicle, maybe women and children, for which you would be the culprit responsible. I'm sure you must have been joking, right?

bzinggg

That's an old bullet caster's joke , I have said similar remarks , its just a way of saying that a hand loader that cast his own bullets will always have bullets to reload and ammo, we are scroungers and always looking for a source of lead, when I used to work in a DENIST office I had the girl who took the X-rays save me the backs of the bite wings ( X-ray film ) because there is a small sheet of lead in them. the guys I use to shoot with kidded me about my radiated lead.

NORM

Norm ... the backs of the bite wings? That really is too much!

I was gonna razz you about all the work to fix the cheesy Lee lock-rings when Hornady sells really nice steel lock rings for $2 ... but then I realized it would be like the pot calling the kettle black ... after all, when you go to the range, I'm the guy squatting down sorting through the brass on the ground

We reloaders are a frugle bunch!

Saands

saands

I'm cheap except on presses and powder measurer's



RCBS Die Locking Ring 7/8 x 14 Thread -- $3.29
Forster Cross Bolt Die Locking Ring 7/8 x 14 -- $3.89
Hornady Sure-Loc Die Locking Ring 7/8 x 14 Thread -- $2.89
Lyman Split-Lock Die Locking Ring 7/8 x 14 Thread -- $3.99
and thats apiece not a 3 pack like use to be

NORM

Funny you mention presses and measures ... I scrounge brass, look for deals on my components (use a LOT of pulldown powders from Jeff Bartlett over at GIBrass), etc ... but I dropped 3 bills (maybe more???) on a powder measure

If I had the space to dedicate to it, I'm sure I'd have one of those nice blue progressives as well ...

Saands

Saands


I do the same , how are their prices http://www.gibrass.com/ I thought I might buy some 308 bullets from them but no prices on site.
the powder measurer I have is and old OHAS and just as correct as the day I bought it, never had to use a Powder Trickler. the press I have is and old Pacific multi-power C , cant load anything over a 50/125 sharps with it so one of these days I'll have to get an RCBS Rock Chucker press ,
don't have a progressive as of yet never felt the need, how are those Dillon press's I hear that they are about the best

NORM

bzinggg,
The wheel weight comment was indeed a joke. Sorry if it was in poor taste.
I recently introduced a friend, and member of this forum, to bullet casting. All he needs is lead. It wasn't too long ago that the tire shops were more than willing to let you haul off their used wheel weights. Not any more. They are hazardous and must be treated accordingly.
Fortunately the plinking range at my gun club has a very high concentration of bullets in the backstop. You couldn't find a better lead mine. I think we take more lead than we leave so I fell good about my efforts of "cleaning up the environment".
Besides, you don't have to dodge all the cars in Walmart's parking lot.

Norm,
I've had the Dillon RL550B for 14 years now. I wouldn't part with it. It has been trouble free. Dillon's "No BS" warranty is hard to beat. I have it set up for 7 different pistol cartridges in the quick change tool heads.
The biggest advantage of the progressives is speed. You can spend an evening and load 1000 rounds. You can't do that with a single stage.
On the other hand, I prefer a single stage for my rifle reloading. I can "feel" each case resizing, each primer and bullet seating. You loose a lot of that in the progressive press because you are doing 3 or 4 processes each pull of the handle. A lot of folks use the progressives for rifle cartridges so maybe I should give it a try sometimes.

I don't know how the Dillons are from experience ... only from their reputation. I still use a Lee hand held press for almost everything ... space seems to be a perpetual challenge for me.

GIBrass prices are usually pretty good ... and they show up on my Browser

152 gr. Original application is Cal. 30 Ball M2 (.30-06). Getting to the end of the supply.
Ball M2 These are a flat base spitzer, mixed lots, collet pulled, cleaned and polished.
Look brand new. GMCS (magnetic) jackets.
Non-magnetic (when availale) is $10/M additional.
$10/C; $80/M; $300/4M

His shipping prices are reasonable ... but to buy powder, you need to buy a bunch to make it worth while ... I usually get a group together and buy 50-60 pounds at a shot and then divy it up.

Saands

All right, I'm jumping in.

I read up on reloading for quite a while, then met some people at gun shows who wouldn't let me buy a press because they see them 2nd hand all the time. As the months rolled and they still hadn't found a press I bought the Lee hand press some 2 months ago.

I de-primed and tumbled 250 9x18 cases a couple weeks ago. Tonight I took 5 empty cases, cleaned the primer holes, and sized, flared and seated 5 Sierra 100-gr bullets. I can do this! I'll pull those bullets, prime some cases, add some Unique, and get to the range.

I could have read forever about how to do the procedure, but once I started it's pretty apparent how it works.

nbender

I knew you could do it ,

NORM