The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

The finish on my 1971 P-64 is smooth with no rust, but really dull and looks thin. What is a do-it-yourself process I can try to dress my P-64 up a bit and that will give me a good result?

randall

There are a lot of good cold blues out there
here are some
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... 10&si=True

my personal favorite is BROWNELLS OXPHO-BLUE LIQUID
This a barrled action i just did not to long ago



NORM

Norm,
Is that BROWNELLS OXPHO-BLUE LIQUID something that has to be ordered or would a gun shop or Gander Mountain store have that? I have an old 38 revolver that could use a makeover.

redfestiva


some gun shops do carry it but not many, I use oxpho-blue because it works for me and I can get it in a 16 oz. bottle if your going to do a just one hand gun get something like FORMULA 44/40® INSTANT GUN BLUE its sold at must gun stores This is what I use when I run out and don't have time to reorder the oxpho-blue

NORM

Thanks for the tip, I'll look for it.

What kind of finish should I expect with the BROWNELLS OXPHO-BLUE LIQUID???????

Randall

keep putting on until you get the finish you want

NORM

I guess my real question is.....is it possible to get something a little shinier than a really flat finish???? I don't expect glossy of course.

randall

polish the metal with 0000 steel wool after each application , you should be ably to get at any hardware store



NORM

I reblued my old 38 revolver and for a first time attempt I could'nt be happier. I'd say it is 95% better than it was. Though it doesnt look new or flawless, it sure refurbished the old gun and I would'nt suspect it is a reblue job. The finish looks semi glossy after a nice coating of EEZOX. I think if I would take much more time and painstakingly prepped the metal via sanding and steel wool more, a near perfect result could be acheived but I took only an hour and the gun looks amazingly better.

+1 with Norm on the Brownell's Oxpho-Blue Liquid and 0000 steel wool.

I used Birchwood Blue & Rust remover to strip the old bluing off the M36 and then swabbed the entire gun with rubbing alcohol let it dry and then buffed it out. Then before I started putting the bluing on I heated the part I was going to blue with a hair dryer. I applied a coat of the Brownell's Oxpho-Blue on and and let dry and then rubbed down with 0000 steel wool after each application, the 0000 steel wool has a small amount of oil in so I didn' use anthing else, it took me several days [if I remember right about 3 weeks, but I did this in my spare time] to put on 16 coats, but the effort was worth it. The only reason I re-blued the M36 was I got it fairly cheap [$199 OTD] but it had something spilled on the frame between the back of the frame and the stocks, you can't really see it in the photo, but in bright light it really looked bad, and then too the cylinder and bbl had lot of holster wear too, I had already re-blued a old shotgun in the same manner for practice and it worked our so well I figured I could do it to the M36. I will admit though, that it is a lot of time consuming work, but for me it was a labor of love............ and I am happy with the results.




Papabear

Papabear

You did a real nice job on that S&W looks like hot blue or factory

NORM

Thanks Norm, it was my next door neighbor that talked me into re-finishing the M36, he guided me through it, and helped a bunch, he had re-finished a couple shotguns that looked great, so I tried it with my old shotgun first, but on the the M36 without his help I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have turned out that nice. We are both retired and need a project to do, but I give him all the credit, but now I have some experience in re-finishing, and especially in touch-up projects.

Papabear

This is my old Taurus 38 after rebluing.

redfestiva
looks like a new gun very good


NORM