The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

Juniustaylor and everyone else...you guys are great!! I appreciate the help very much...oddly my trigger guard broke right in the middle of it (sorry no pic) nowhere by the pawl. Classic arms told me to send the broken one back to them and they'll send a new one to me. How hard is it to replace? Ideas? Thanks again...

Well foo, I was nowhere close. You're saying it broke in the middle of the hoop? Weird. I suppose it could still be from the recoil and maybe the trigger guard can somewhat flex as the slide hits the pawl (abutment). Very interesting. You have to knock the pin out of the trigger guard which is easier said than done. I think some said the pin has a groove around it that the detent engages to keep the pin from coming out easily. So, once you get the pin out, the trigger guard will come off the frame and you'll need to hang on to the detent and spring until your new guard comes.

I pulled out all my similar type blo back pistols for an eyeball comparison today of the trigger guard slide stops and made the following observations.

EG Mak has a wider stop but it sits against the frame like the CZ82 Junius noted above.

P83 is similiar to the Mak in that it sits against the frame and wider.

Feg SMC 9x18 's stop is thicker and farther from the frame than the p64.

PPK/S 380 acp is thicker and farther from the frame than P64.

PP wartime 32 acp looks thicker and looks like the same distance from the frame as the P64. This really surprsed me as the 32 acp round would be less punishing on the slide stop but then the Germans did have a tendancy to go the extra distance in there designs to the point of over engineering.

So did the Germans over spec the size of the trigger slide stop for a 32acp or did the Poles under spec the P64 for a 9x18?

to take the trigger guard off you just don't drive the pin out , you can brake the pin or the detent pin . you put it in a vise and slowly tighten it down , then you can just push the pin out . do not over tighten the vise, you can bend the barrel

NORM

Curly1 wrote:PP wartime 32 acp looks thicker and looks like the same distance from the frame as the P64. This really surprsed me as the 32 acp round would be less punishing on the slide stop but then the Germans did have a tendancy to go the extra distance in there designs to the point of over engineering.

So did the Germans over spec the size of the trigger slide stop for a 32acp or did the Poles under spec the P64 for a 9x18?

I have a friend who's been researching the .32ACP and he has come across some pretty convincing evidence that WWII and earlier euro .32ACP was extremely hot by today's standards; well into (past?) SAAMI +P specs. My recollection of it is that he said it was making as much M.E. as .380ACP., between 160 and 200 fp/e, depending on the load (http://www.thektog.org/forum/showthread.php?t=245952#2). That equals the .380ACP from the PPK/S (http://ballisticsbytheinch.com/380auto.html).

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

Mine just did the same thing. Took DA shot at the trigger guard broke right at the spawl..Ordered another in hopes mine was wore out since my P64 is a 1967 model. I also ordered a wolf spring set in hopes that would reduce weat in the future.

Hmn, after reading this thread, I"ve decided to put back the Wolff 20# recoil spring. I put the OEM spring back, after shooting the pistol with both springs and noticing no difference in the felt recoil. But obviously the 20# Wolff will have a stronger tension than the OEM 18#(?) spring, even if I dont feel the difference. Maybe this will help prevent breakage of the trigger guard.