The Unofficial P64 Resource Forum

Having the grips in two pieces is much better for the anchoring of the grips. Remember to slip the undercut area along the forward side of the individual grips into the bevel of the inside of the forward part of the frame FIRST. Then, you will not find it difficult to make the panel fit properly; which is stationary and flat. Adjust the grip screw snugly, but never overly tight. If snugged properly, the grip will be stabilized by the way that front bevel fits, along with other dimensions purposely engineered into the design.

Add edit: I am copying those images here in order that we may link to this explanation for newcomers or others that ask:



The frame is beveled inwardly to accomodate the 45 degree return on the grip.

stibnite,

None of my grips on the P-64 have ever slipped around while shooting or any other time including the origianl flat grips, thumbrest grips, Zee's grips or Dennis's grips. To each their own though. If your qrips are slipping around maybe they need tighting or maybe changing your grip, but what do I know, if the solid grips work for you then nuff said.

papabear

Yep, the solid grips work for me.

I've always had a problem with "play" in the grips of my 1972 P-64, starting with the first time I shot it. I found that I needed to tighten them at the range periodically. Zee grips had the same play. Not "falling off the pistol" loose, but just a little movement when the pistol is gripped. I find that irritating.

Maybe it's the pistol. I'll check it out with my 1975, I thought it had the same problem but I haven't shot it as much.

stibnite

I had the same problem with all the two piece grips I tried. My second set of Zee grips were much better but still had a bit of movement. I have no problem with the one piece sets that I have from Dennis.
C-Ya, Bobby J.

My old style one piece grips have a little play in them (pivoting around the grip screw) and I am afraid to tighten it up to much and crack them. So far 200-300 rds. they have no crack that I can see. (This 64 doesn't get fired much)

I like the profile of the newer style but not the fact that they are wider.

Hello,
I've made another modification last week. I moved the undercut edge by 0.04" so they will fit the frame better.
I think the recoil cracked the rear-top corner of the grips because the front lip was not even close to the frames undercut. (That's why the grips rotating around the screw)

I will make them unglued in the future and they will not be that wide! Every shooter have to fit there grips to the frame as the way bzinggg mentioned. Thank you bzinggg!!!

Dennis

Unglued and not as wide..... Now I may have to get another set. I have been wanting some for the mak and cz anyway.

Dennis,

You're welcome! I think the work you do is outstanding. I make hand-turned professional billiards cues, furniture and cabinets and know what difficulty there is in the work sometimes.

b.

HELP.... I recently purchased some Red Wattle checkered grips from Dennis and tried them out for the first time at the range last week. After half a box of Silver Bear FMJ's, I noticed a hair-line crack on the top of the backing. What should I do to keep from further damaging the grips.
I really love the way they look and feel so I'd hate to just call it a loss and retire the grips, only after half of box of shooting. Is there a good way to strengthen the grips, cover the crack, and not effect its somewhat snug fitting to the frame?
I don't know if Dennis would be willing to replace these grips since I have shot 20 some rounds with them, But I hope he replies to my emails soon. Any suggestions would help... Thanks guys.

islandson827

DENNIS will probably replace them free of charge
I've heard of guys using supper glue on hair line cracks , I have never used it though, I have always used a clear 2 part epoxy, you can't have any oil on the parts you tend on gluing

NORM

The best adhesion you can get these days is a polyester glue, like Gorilla Glue, for holding exotic and other hardwoods. I use oily exotics like Ebony, Cocobolo, Bacote, etc. and cannot afford failure as many of the items I make are very expensive.

A tip for this application: Open the glue bottle tip, put your lips over the hairline crack and force your moist breath into the crack if possible, then force the glue into the crack with an "across-the-crack" rub of the thumb. The moisture will accelerate the catalyzation of the urethane and improve the penetration of the glue into the pores of the surfaces you are trying to bond. Wipe any excess glue off and wrap the glued area of the grip(while installed on the frame) with latex strapping or electrical tape, stretching to the max as you wrap for a tight clamping action. Four hours at 77 degrees and 50% humidy will give the maximum bond, and the time will vary with any differentiation. If the grips are one-piece, you probably cracked it when you put them on but didn't notice it at the time. I use air pressure to force glue into cracks in furniture and cabinet woods sometimes,(I never sell a cue with structural flaws and they don't undergo stresses that cause hairline cracks) but extreme care for collateral damage, including to one's eyes must be excercised when using compressed air in this manner.

islandson827,

+1 with bzinggg. My first set of Dennis grips [one piece] checkered red Wattle did the same thing in the same place, but I sent him pix's and he replaced them right away. I know when I was putting them on I broke them. He redesigned the grips and I haven't had a problem with them since, however, I did ask to have the replacement grips "not glued" together, but just like the original grips and the Zee grips two separate grips. I took the broken set and used Gorilla Glue as "bzinggg" mentioned and I did wet the area where it was broken before I applied the Gorilla Glue, and I haven't had a problem with that set either. Bzinggg process is much better than the way I did mine, but so for they are holding up.

If you look very close a the pix below you and see where it broke on the back strap of the one piece grips. I have shot with them over 200 rds and they are holding up just fine.




papabear

Hello,
I'm replacing the cracked P64 grips. Unfortunately, I running low on Wattle. I will buy some on thursday so the replacement sets (and the new orders) will ship on next week.

Regards,
Dennis

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'm gonna try some Gorilla glue and Bzinggg's method.

Dennis, everyone here knows the high quality of your grips. But not everyone gets the chance to see how good of a businessman you are! Thanks for offering to replace the grips. Its rare these days to find people that stand behind their product 100%.

I'll post the results as soon as the the glue has cured. Thanks again guys!

So, I went ahead and gorilla glued the crack ont he top back of my wood grips, when I noticed that there was a second smaller crack on the other side of the back. So I gorilla glued that crack, following Bzinggg's advice.

But I got a little worried about calling it safe to shoot with these repaired grips. Dennis is already in the process of replacing my Red Wattle checkered grips... so I decided to experiment a little. Since I felt that these repaired grips, though thoroughly glued, might safer be used just for show, I decided to sand down the finish, apply a little more glue to the cracks, and give the grips a healthy dose of poly-urethane.

Now I'm not familiar with taboos on using poly-urethane on gun grips, so I forgive me if I just wasted a pair of cracked wooden grips. But since I'm reserving these just for show and not shoot, why not right, right? Anyways, I'm likin' the finish of the Poly-U on the wood. What do you guys think?



Oh and while I was at it, I took my extra pair of original plastic grips and kinda went crazy with some household spray paint. So, now I have a pair of Woodland MarPat Plastic grips with a thumbrest. I still need to wet sand and clear coat, and the pattern was spur of the moment. I am no proffesional by any means.

islandson827

I think you did a fine job on both pair
they really look good


NORM