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Duracoat

Posted: February 10th, 2007, 1:37 am
by grayfox
Did my last post read like Im some kind of sales rep for the stuff? I swear I'm not...;)
Not at all. I spent 22 years in the tampa area, so I know what you mean about the finish. Please let us all know how this turns out, I have heard a lot of good things about Dura coat. Keep us informed please.
Sam

Duracoat

Posted: February 10th, 2007, 7:29 am
by abwehr
Sorry for taking so long to get back on this thread, but I have been out of town and in metting after meeting, then trying to tie up loose ends for several projects I need to complete in the next 2 weeks so I can go to Washington State again for about 7 weeks. I have been busier "than a cat in a sandbox with diarrea" lately, LOL!

Anyway, the Duracoat did well on my 1919 as I said. When I completed the build, it was test fired for operation, stripped, and degreased. I lightly blasted the externals and cleaned again. With the internals out, I masked all the holes, rear sight, and anything that needed to stay blued. I used one of the little cheapie airbrush guns from Harbor Freight and sprayed according to the directions. For baking, I had left the water cooled tamk loose so I could remove it easy. With the wife away for the weekend (yea, they don't like this stuff in their ovens, LOL), I baked the receiver section according to directions, and then did the water jacket. I like the stuff! Parkerizing is better, but I don't have the equipment and don't know anyone that does, so Duracoat was my next option. Here is a photo of the finished product. The light spot near the middle bottom is some type reflection?????
Image

Duracoat

Posted: February 10th, 2007, 9:45 am
by beasleydano
AWESOME!

Duracoat

Posted: February 11th, 2007, 12:08 am
by barnett3006
Awesome pic! The gun in the fore ground doesn't look half-bad either ;D

Seriously though, your 1919 looks good.

Duracoat

Posted: February 11th, 2007, 7:51 am
by abwehr
Thanks guys, the 1919 belt fed guns are a blast (pardon the pun) to shoot and more fun to build! The water water cooled gun was the last one I have built. I guess three is enough, LOL.

The car is my wifes "baby". It is fun to drive in the mountains. It has a supercharger and so far I have gotten up to 140 MPH and still had pedal to go when I decided it was time to back off. This would really be fun on the Autobahn.

Duracoat

Posted: February 27th, 2007, 1:00 am
by barnett3006
Well...my three day weekend came and went, unfortunately it got packed with a bunch of crap that I had to take care of and it didn't leave me with any time for me to work on Duracoating my gun :(. I don't have another concealable handgun anyway and I didn't want to go 3 weeks unarmed. Don't worry though, I have a .357 snubby ;D on the way that will fill in nicely until the Duracoat is cured (when I get to coat my P64).

I did, however, get in some range time and I put a box of ammo or two through those 2 mags that I did Duracoat. The coating did flake off the sharp edges of the mag (there is another spot that on the side of the mag that came off but that is entirely my fault for not letting it cure as long as it should). I feel that if I hit the sharp edges of the mag (and my gun for that matter) with some fine sand paper to kind of round them out and polish them that the Duracoat will stick no prob.

I think I have finally decided how far I'm going to take my gun down to coat it, I would like some input from you guys so I get some more opinions about the procedure I'm going to take.

after a field strip and a pre-liminary degreasing...

the slide will be completely stripped; safety, firing pin, loaded chamber indicator, and extractor will all come out and all parts throughly degreased and dried in the oven (any sharp corners/edges will have to be rounded out some and then re-blued for a base coat). I will them mask all internal surfaces and plug all holes on the slide. I will also mask the internal surface of the extractor and safety as I will be coating the outside surfaces of those as well.

the frame will only be partially stripped (grip-stocks ;) cant be in the way obviously); trigger guard, trigger, transfer bar and magazine catch and all corresponding parts will all come off. After a good degreasing and drying, all internal surfaces (with the exception of the area that resides underneath the grips) will be masked off. No working surfaces or parts that would normally be covered by the slide or grips will be coated.

I'm still up in grabs about the hammer, I was going to leave it on the frame and mask the striking surface as I don't know how difficult it is to remove the hammer without removing everything else.

now about the markings...I know I cant cover or obscure the serial number in anyway, but what about the importation markings? Will I be breaking some BS law if I sand and cover the importation markings into invisibility? Does anyone really care that my P64 made it here by way of Tennessee Guns of Knox, TN?

thanks

Duracoat

Posted: February 27th, 2007, 5:46 pm
by bzinggg
Having participated in a discussion on this subject before, I can relay to you that the import mark does not have the same importance to the BATFE as the serial number and the general concensus among the experts in the discussion, including Law Enforcement, is that is does not matter what you do to the import mark.

Duracoat

Posted: February 28th, 2007, 1:05 am
by barnett3006
bzinggg,
that answers my question. thanks alot.