Limp Trigger

[juniustaylor]

The CZ-82 does have a form of trigger disconnect. I figured most all guns would. The difference is that it is not as sensitive as the P-64. On the CZ-82 the slide has to be pulled back almost 1/8" before the trigger is disconnected. So, testing the Brown Bear in the '82 wouldn't be worth anything. I was messing with my CZ-82 just a second ago to see how the disconnector system was in it.

[lklawson]

I got out my snap-caps and ran them in all of the test guns. I loaded in the snap-cap, withdrew the slide between 1-2mm and pulled the trigger. With the exception of the P64, all of them would fire when a millimeter or two out of battery.

The Brown Bear will fire with no problems in any of them since it is less than 1/10th of a millimeter over-length.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[fully machined]

Mine is right on top of the disconnector quickly also. Check the disconnector pocket in your slide and see if the metal has been "pulled" forward. It may be easier to work on the disconnector.
Of course, removing metal from something that is not the problem is not good!!

When you say limp trigger per mag, was this when the hammer was cocked or down or both?
The trigger bar is in a lower position in SA, which means that the disconnector will have to "reach" further.

[juniustaylor]

I know I ramble on and on but this is the video that I made for the other feller that was having a problem with silver bear. If the case length is any bit too long, DA and SA will not work. The disconnector has to be able to lift up into the recess in the safety for it to work. LOL, and I was pulling the trigger at the end and I allowed the hammer to fall. Didn't hurt anything. You can just skip through the video. I should probably just make it shorter but I made it so that I could explain it to another member that may not have been familiar with the P-64 system.

[juniustaylor]

As I told the feller with the Silver Bear making the limp trigger; I think you could lightly file this one spot on the slide with a jeweler's file (available at Harbor Freight) just enough so that the Brown Bear will work fine. It doesn't lack much to be able to work. It's not a case of the slide pushing the disconnector down, it's that the slide is blocking the disconnector from being able to move when the trigger is being pulled.

You can file the ledge where the arrow is pointing to. You can see mine has a wear mark.

[juniustaylor]

The reason I would not file the disconnector is that you could then affect the decocker function of the safety. If the metal on the face of the disconnector can't make enough contact with the safety as it cams over to SAFE, then the thing won't push down enough to make the hammer fall. That's why I'd work on the slide first and remove that small bit of metal.

[RobsTV]

Thanks for showing that video.

While the problem I am having was limp trigger when moving safety from safe to fire, the video brought up a point that I had not messed with.

This is also mentioned in this thread, peening slide:
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=4173

I did see a little meat on the slide at that location, and used a dremel to slightly even it out. So far this looks like it might have cured the issue I was having. While my slide was fully forward, when the safety off made trigger limp, if I moved the slide back a spec, the "click" could be heard, and trigger would then work properly. I have tested various things that seemed to work until I get to the range, and while I have great faith in this finally curing issue, will have to wait until range day to totally confirm.

Thanks again for all the great posts that help us all out!

[lklawson]

Great info guys. Thanks.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[juniustaylor]

I know that those legs being peened and flattened can cause the safety to be difficult to operate and even not operate at all. I suppose if the flattened area was drastic enough it could cause the disconnector to not work properly (in the case of RobsTV). It would be worth checking but I think the problem is the little bit of metal where the safety cams over. Where the arrow is pointing directly to. Thanks for bringing up the peened area RobsTV.

[lklawson]

OK. I took my slide off and looked at the indicated area. It looked a little sloppy and I saw what might be some light peening so I just "dressed" it a bit with some very light file work. More of a polish than material removal. Took it to the range today (with my PF9 & P11 to run the new sights on them) and ran 50 rounds of Brown Bear. The dressing improved the problem but did not make it go away. I'm going to have to take out the safety, fp, & other stuff there in the way and get a little bit more aggressive about it. I'm thinking I'll have to hone around 0.1-0.25mm off of it.

But at least I got some trigger bite and a blood-blister out of the deal.

Now, where's that video on removing the Safety & FP?...

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[juniustaylor]

EASIER METHOD:


HARDER METHOD:

[lklawson]

Thanks.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk

[juniustaylor]

Kirk, whatever came of your P-64? Did you do any dressing to those areas and did it fix it?

[RobsTV]

I will add that this totally corrected the issues I was having. Problem solved. Thanks again.

[lklawson]

Kirk, whatever came of your P-64? Did you do any dressing to those areas and did it fix it?

The sad truth is that I've been too busy to find out. My plate has been crank'n full.

I've just gone on as an assistant coach at the Judo club I've been a member of. I still teach Western Martial Arts. I went out to N/E Ohio to teach at a WMA seminar. I went on vacation to D.C. And a bunch of other stuff that I'm forgetting right now.

Oh, and I broke my foot (doing Judo). ...which makes coaching Judo and WMA a lot harder. Haven't tried shooting while in the cam boot yet. Hope I don't have to try, actually.

I promise that when I get a roundtuit I will post my results. I'm just really unsure of a time frame.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk